Tuesday, April 14, 2009
Just a Note
Dear Ones, I've started to add photos to the blog, starting with the earliest entries. Perhaps I can do a better job with the ones I have yet to write, adding pictures as I go. Lets hope so, anyway. I'll work on this so you can see a little of what we love about India. Love,mj
Sunday, February 15, 2009
Delhi
India is a very large country with major cities far apart. It was a long drive from Jaipur to Delhi, but Tarun, being from there, drove right to the YMCA Hostel where we had reservations for a week. The room was clean; breakfast and supper were included in the modest tariff. We'd chosen to share a bathroom, which turned out fine, since we hardly saw anyone else in the one shower, one sink and two stall common room. After we rested a while we went "exploring" as PC likes to do. I wanted posters of the Taj Mahal and PC wanted maps. We were told we could get them just a block that way and across the street. We managed the block that way just fine, but crossing the 4 lane/median/high curbs to the median had us looking this way and that for a while. A Seik came up to us and offered to take us across the street for 10Rs (which is pennies US) so we agreed. When we were on the auto rickshaw and rolling he told us he'd take us to his family's mall where the prices were lower. I said no, but he explained the mall I wanted to go to was no good. I reminded him of the deal we'd made. He kept talking about his family mall. I told him I was getting out and put my foot out of the rickshaw. He said Oh, no, no, no. I take you. All I had was a 50 R note,so I gave it to him and waited for my 40Rs change. He gave it to me reluctantly. I thanked him without much gratitude in my heart for him, but a lot for being across the street.
PC, who had been silent this whole time , told me that there was a sign at the Y that said if guests got their transportation for anyone except through the Y tourist guide that they weren't responsible for that guest. Oh, OK, from now on it's the tourist guide for me!!! We found the book store, got my posters and his map and started back. This time we crossed the street at a traffic light (What a concept - crossing the street at a traffic light). We got back in time for dinner, which was spicy hot for PC, but OK for me. We felt safe and full and slept well.
The next day we rested and met Grace (Mercy's sister) to plan out our week in Delhi. She went with us to the official tour guide and we planned the trip to the Golden temple in Amritsar, our Delhi tour and the Taj Mahal in Agra with rest days interspersed. She is such a blessing to have around, to speak the local language, bargain for us and just to visit with.
The Golden Temple is a Seik place of worship with 4 gates in the 4 cardinal directions (signifying the 4 major castes in India), but with only 1 entrance to the temple (signifying that wherever we came from, we all enter the temple together). I like that. PC had researched this part of the trip and was impressed that Seiks feed people at their temples as long as anyone wants to eat - for free. They take care of their own as well as others. Grace said she's never seen a Seik begging. I was impressed that all the people who work inside the 3 or 4 acre area are volunteers. They may be scrubbing the marble with a small brush in hard to get to places or singing inside the temple, they may be doctors of laborers, but all are equal there.
Inside, there is a wide walkway around the center where people sit and pray and/or read from a small book. In the center which is square there were 3 musicians, all 3 miked and piped out to the whole compound. One has a drum and 2 have a harmonium, which is an accordion-type key board played by one hand while the other opens and closes the back of the box-like instrument. There were 2 men sitting on either side of "the Book" which has writings of the gurus, even Muslim poetry. It's about 2'x4 or 5' when opened. it is covered with a white cloth. There is a man sitting on the 3rd side by himself with a raised alter-type rectangle in front of him. They all were sitting cross-legged on the floor and sang and played continually as long as we were there, and this place is open 24/7. And by the way, the complete building (3 stories) is covered with gold. We saw it in the early morning, and it was spectacular. We'd spent the night in a hotel that had been recommended to Grace. We got there rather late and left early the next morning, so we didn't really get to enjoy it much. The trip there and back was looooooong, but it was worth it!!!
After a day of rest it was time for our Agra / Taj Mahal trip. We left reasonably early, ate lunch on the way and arrived at the Taj in early afternoon. We had a good driver and an excellent guide. When we got to the entry gate I was surprised to find out that this Raj who was so in love with his wife that he used 20,000 workers over 20 years to build this magnificent tomb for her, also had 2 other wives for whom he built large mausoleums (by US standards) but dinky compared to the Taj. They are, of course, symmetrically places OUTSIDE the gate to the Taj. So, there we stood looking at a famous wonder of the world, the Taj Mahal. Yep, that was it, just like I've seen in pictures since grade school when I was fascinated by the story of such love of a man for his wife and the beautiful monument he built her. Then we passed through the gate and started walking slowly toward the white marble perfectly symmetrical "picture" and it grew larger and larger as we got closer. By the time we climbed the stairs to the raised platform the building and minarets rest on It seemed HUGE. Any picture I've ever seen was of course, small - in a book, a poster. One is awed by the size of the thing. Then one thinks of how they got these blocks of marble from many miles away, how they stacked them up. There are carvings and precious stone powder ground and used as paint. There are mosaics of Arabic writings in onix fitted perfectly into the marble, giving the contrast of matt white and shinny black which can be seen from 400 yds away. Yes, we were impressed!!! On the way back we sat on "the" bench everyone sits on that is directly in front of the Taj, near the entry gate and had our picture made. It still seems unreal to me.
This whole trip has been an unbelievable experience, one we'd never realized if Camile hadn't called me to be the prayer partner to a young Christian lady who came to our church with her Hindu husband. Mercy and Nikhil became part of our family and we theirs. Now their parents Dr. Ashwin & Sunita and "Dr." Earnest & Jainti are our family as well. They have been our guardians, our cooks, our travel guides, our advisers and our friends. Bakul (Nikhil's cousin in Pune) and Grace(Mercy's sister in Delhi) have taken such good care of us when others weren't around to do so. We are so grateful for these young women for the time they gave for us even in their busy processional lives. And we can't forget Sam and Immanuel (Mercy's brothers) whose company we enjoyed thoroughly.
Today we had lunch with Nikhil's grandfather and grandmother - such lovely people. They welcomed us to India, to Pune, and to their home when we were first here over 2 months ago and welcomed us again today. I had a long talk with Grandfather and find him progressive and thankful for all that has happened in India since Independence only 60 years ago. He remembers when the British were here and he had not one word of criticism of them, but highlighted the positives they left behind. Grandmother doesn't speak Eng so our conversation was a lot of gesturing and waiting for translation. She's a sweet lady.
Tomorrow we go for "Slumdog" with Bakul and maybe some last minute shopping. Monday we leave in the morning (that's Ashwin, Sunita, Bakul, PC and I) for Munbai. We're leaving early so we can see some of Mumbai, especially the terrorist's targets and how they're up and running now, and some other highlights. We leave after midnight (making it Tues here) and we'll be there Tue at 3pm. The Hemmingers will collect us at the airport and deposit us at home where I plan to sleep for a day or two.
It is a bitter-sweet time for us. We're anxious to get home, and we're just learning to get along by ourselves in India. It's been "Easy Street" for us here, with everyone cooking for us, washing our clothes, cleaning our room. I'm just wondering if someone is going to do that for us when we get home (JUST KIDDING). Some good old fashioned work will be good for us, just as this trip has been good for us.
I will finish up the rest of the Adventure when I get home. Bye for now. Love,mj
PC, who had been silent this whole time , told me that there was a sign at the Y that said if guests got their transportation for anyone except through the Y tourist guide that they weren't responsible for that guest. Oh, OK, from now on it's the tourist guide for me!!! We found the book store, got my posters and his map and started back. This time we crossed the street at a traffic light (What a concept - crossing the street at a traffic light). We got back in time for dinner, which was spicy hot for PC, but OK for me. We felt safe and full and slept well.
The next day we rested and met Grace (Mercy's sister) to plan out our week in Delhi. She went with us to the official tour guide and we planned the trip to the Golden temple in Amritsar, our Delhi tour and the Taj Mahal in Agra with rest days interspersed. She is such a blessing to have around, to speak the local language, bargain for us and just to visit with.
The Golden Temple is a Seik place of worship with 4 gates in the 4 cardinal directions (signifying the 4 major castes in India), but with only 1 entrance to the temple (signifying that wherever we came from, we all enter the temple together). I like that. PC had researched this part of the trip and was impressed that Seiks feed people at their temples as long as anyone wants to eat - for free. They take care of their own as well as others. Grace said she's never seen a Seik begging. I was impressed that all the people who work inside the 3 or 4 acre area are volunteers. They may be scrubbing the marble with a small brush in hard to get to places or singing inside the temple, they may be doctors of laborers, but all are equal there.
Inside, there is a wide walkway around the center where people sit and pray and/or read from a small book. In the center which is square there were 3 musicians, all 3 miked and piped out to the whole compound. One has a drum and 2 have a harmonium, which is an accordion-type key board played by one hand while the other opens and closes the back of the box-like instrument. There were 2 men sitting on either side of "the Book" which has writings of the gurus, even Muslim poetry. It's about 2'x4 or 5' when opened. it is covered with a white cloth. There is a man sitting on the 3rd side by himself with a raised alter-type rectangle in front of him. They all were sitting cross-legged on the floor and sang and played continually as long as we were there, and this place is open 24/7. And by the way, the complete building (3 stories) is covered with gold. We saw it in the early morning, and it was spectacular. We'd spent the night in a hotel that had been recommended to Grace. We got there rather late and left early the next morning, so we didn't really get to enjoy it much. The trip there and back was looooooong, but it was worth it!!!
After a day of rest it was time for our Agra / Taj Mahal trip. We left reasonably early, ate lunch on the way and arrived at the Taj in early afternoon. We had a good driver and an excellent guide. When we got to the entry gate I was surprised to find out that this Raj who was so in love with his wife that he used 20,000 workers over 20 years to build this magnificent tomb for her, also had 2 other wives for whom he built large mausoleums (by US standards) but dinky compared to the Taj. They are, of course, symmetrically places OUTSIDE the gate to the Taj. So, there we stood looking at a famous wonder of the world, the Taj Mahal. Yep, that was it, just like I've seen in pictures since grade school when I was fascinated by the story of such love of a man for his wife and the beautiful monument he built her. Then we passed through the gate and started walking slowly toward the white marble perfectly symmetrical "picture" and it grew larger and larger as we got closer. By the time we climbed the stairs to the raised platform the building and minarets rest on It seemed HUGE. Any picture I've ever seen was of course, small - in a book, a poster. One is awed by the size of the thing. Then one thinks of how they got these blocks of marble from many miles away, how they stacked them up. There are carvings and precious stone powder ground and used as paint. There are mosaics of Arabic writings in onix fitted perfectly into the marble, giving the contrast of matt white and shinny black which can be seen from 400 yds away. Yes, we were impressed!!! On the way back we sat on "the" bench everyone sits on that is directly in front of the Taj, near the entry gate and had our picture made. It still seems unreal to me.
This whole trip has been an unbelievable experience, one we'd never realized if Camile hadn't called me to be the prayer partner to a young Christian lady who came to our church with her Hindu husband. Mercy and Nikhil became part of our family and we theirs. Now their parents Dr. Ashwin & Sunita and "Dr." Earnest & Jainti are our family as well. They have been our guardians, our cooks, our travel guides, our advisers and our friends. Bakul (Nikhil's cousin in Pune) and Grace(Mercy's sister in Delhi) have taken such good care of us when others weren't around to do so. We are so grateful for these young women for the time they gave for us even in their busy processional lives. And we can't forget Sam and Immanuel (Mercy's brothers) whose company we enjoyed thoroughly.
Today we had lunch with Nikhil's grandfather and grandmother - such lovely people. They welcomed us to India, to Pune, and to their home when we were first here over 2 months ago and welcomed us again today. I had a long talk with Grandfather and find him progressive and thankful for all that has happened in India since Independence only 60 years ago. He remembers when the British were here and he had not one word of criticism of them, but highlighted the positives they left behind. Grandmother doesn't speak Eng so our conversation was a lot of gesturing and waiting for translation. She's a sweet lady.
Tomorrow we go for "Slumdog" with Bakul and maybe some last minute shopping. Monday we leave in the morning (that's Ashwin, Sunita, Bakul, PC and I) for Munbai. We're leaving early so we can see some of Mumbai, especially the terrorist's targets and how they're up and running now, and some other highlights. We leave after midnight (making it Tues here) and we'll be there Tue at 3pm. The Hemmingers will collect us at the airport and deposit us at home where I plan to sleep for a day or two.
It is a bitter-sweet time for us. We're anxious to get home, and we're just learning to get along by ourselves in India. It's been "Easy Street" for us here, with everyone cooking for us, washing our clothes, cleaning our room. I'm just wondering if someone is going to do that for us when we get home (JUST KIDDING). Some good old fashioned work will be good for us, just as this trip has been good for us.
I will finish up the rest of the Adventure when I get home. Bye for now. Love,mj
Friday, February 13, 2009
Jaipur
After a bone crunching 5 hour drive, we arrived in Jaipur very tired, indeed, so we begged off our 5 hour Jaipur city tour that was planned for Mon, til Tue, and "took rest". We're getting to appreciate the Indian idea of "taking rest". We got out for a walk and met 3 men who talked to us about the pollution given off by private buses, but NOT by the gov't owned buses. They seemed quite proud of of their gov't's progress and glad also to use their English. Being Mon. the mall we'd set out for was closed. Seems Sun. is a big sales day, so shopkeepers take Mon off. It was the same in Pune. We watched a movie on TV and a lot of Animal Planet, since most of TV is in languages other than Eng. We feel handicapped, knowing only one language.
In the evening we got out again about 5pm. and walked a different direction. I was still in need of hair spray and/or gel, and there it was- a small beauty shop!!! Surely they have hairspray. I was met at the door by 3 ladies. I stated my need. They were very cooperative and very helpful, but were not understanding. One, the youngest, knew a little Eng. It got to be really funny, with me pointing and gesturing, and them trying to figure out what I wanted. Gents are not allowed in a beauty shop, so PC was outside talking to a man in Eng. The owner went to the door and told him what she was offering me: shampoo, blow-dry, gel and combed up into a knot. He translated and then explained "They'll wash, gel and fix your hair so it wont move, like me". He smiled widely, and I was sure this was a compliment. How much? 500Rs - too much - OK 400Rs - too much - OK 350 Rs - 325 says I boldly. They all laughed that I was bargaining. The girl who spoke Eng had already told me the cost was 200Rs, so I didn't feel badly at bargaining them down a bit. By the time of blow-drying all 5 beauticians had done part of my hair. I think they'd never seen or felt such fine and stringy hair as mine. We all laughed a lot. The next night I want for a pedicure - more fun, lots of questions. These ladies didn't ask my age as most Indians do. They asked "how many children? what are their ages? you don't look old enough to have children in their 50's". Then I told them my age, of course, but I thought they were quite clever in getting ME to answer their unasked question. I didn't get hair spray or gel from them, as what they had was all they had to work with. The shop was 10' x 15', with 1 shampoo bowl and 2 chairs and a place to lie prone for facial or massage. And did I mention there were 5 of them!!!
Wed. we did the Jaipur city tour that included the massive Amer Fort, located on the prominent hill with a very sturdy wall, encompassing maybe 100 football fields. There is a long walk to the fort from the road. Some made their way there by elaborately draped elephants with colorful drawings on their hides. As they arrived at the "welcome" plaza there were 2 huge drums (that were not tuned to any specific tone and 1 trumpeter, all who played loudly (and continuisously) as the elephants with their "important" guests arrived, as in centuries before. There were many elephants, so when they delivered one "load" they trekked down for another. Having already ridden an elephant, we chose to go as far as possible by car - which was almost as close as the elephants came.
Inside I had to keep reminding myself that this was a fort, for it looked like a palace. Indeed, the parts that were on display were the beautiful quarters for the women, the bathing areas (complete with solar water heater) and a garden on the top floor with trees and pools and a swing that was approached only by wading in the ankle deep rain water, harvested in the monsoon season. There were many inclines and few steps; the reason being, when the queen or wives of the Raj got dressed in their best gowns they weighed about 40 lbs because of all the gold and precious stones sewn into and onto it. A chair with wheels was devised to accommodate the lady and her dress to the royal perch assigned her. The king sat on his special place on an adjecent wall. The other ladies were present, but behind a marble "screen" with holes cut so they could see out, but no one could see them. These seats were on a balcony level with with "stage" on the 1st floor, but with no stair to connect the two. There they would be entertained by dancers, musicians, magicians, singers and poetry/history tellers, to mention but a few.
Of interest was the first camode in the area, for the king's use only. It resembled the plushly overstuffed leather office chairs with arms. It had a flushing system that had to be hand filled, and most important, it had a removable portion in the center to make it utilitarian. Some things never change - there was a book holder in easy reach of this contraption!!!
Next day we went to the Hindu Temple where we were told by a 40ish, nice looking man in orange and speaking perfect Eng, explained what was going on, how we could help keep the temple in good repair with a small donation and blessed us, wishing for us a long and healthy life AND painting saffron colored paste on our foreheads. There were many people praying and reading from a small book, all out loud and not by any means in unison. The result was a low hum that sounded very much in place there.
The City Palace was over and above anything I'd ever seen in sheer beauty and craftmanship. I'll have to let the pictures talk for me on this one.
Our driver, Tarun, found PC a barbershop where I found a can or hairspray for 700Rs (that's $14). I declined. He showed me the price tag - he'd paid 13Rs for it. I think he needs to find another supplier. They did a great Job on PC's hair - there were 2 barbers and one worked a while and the other finished up. It was a very nice hair cut. Then Tarun took us to a "big" grocery store - which is big here, but nothing like as big as I go to at home. All the same, it was big to us. We got fruit and cheese, bread and crackers, and strawberry icecream which We had for my birthday luncheon - well, there was no freezer and we HAD to eat it all.
In the evening we got out again about 5pm. and walked a different direction. I was still in need of hair spray and/or gel, and there it was- a small beauty shop!!! Surely they have hairspray. I was met at the door by 3 ladies. I stated my need. They were very cooperative and very helpful, but were not understanding. One, the youngest, knew a little Eng. It got to be really funny, with me pointing and gesturing, and them trying to figure out what I wanted. Gents are not allowed in a beauty shop, so PC was outside talking to a man in Eng. The owner went to the door and told him what she was offering me: shampoo, blow-dry, gel and combed up into a knot. He translated and then explained "They'll wash, gel and fix your hair so it wont move, like me". He smiled widely, and I was sure this was a compliment. How much? 500Rs - too much - OK 400Rs - too much - OK 350 Rs - 325 says I boldly. They all laughed that I was bargaining. The girl who spoke Eng had already told me the cost was 200Rs, so I didn't feel badly at bargaining them down a bit. By the time of blow-drying all 5 beauticians had done part of my hair. I think they'd never seen or felt such fine and stringy hair as mine. We all laughed a lot. The next night I want for a pedicure - more fun, lots of questions. These ladies didn't ask my age as most Indians do. They asked "how many children? what are their ages? you don't look old enough to have children in their 50's". Then I told them my age, of course, but I thought they were quite clever in getting ME to answer their unasked question. I didn't get hair spray or gel from them, as what they had was all they had to work with. The shop was 10' x 15', with 1 shampoo bowl and 2 chairs and a place to lie prone for facial or massage. And did I mention there were 5 of them!!!
Wed. we did the Jaipur city tour that included the massive Amer Fort, located on the prominent hill with a very sturdy wall, encompassing maybe 100 football fields. There is a long walk to the fort from the road. Some made their way there by elaborately draped elephants with colorful drawings on their hides. As they arrived at the "welcome" plaza there were 2 huge drums (that were not tuned to any specific tone and 1 trumpeter, all who played loudly (and continuisously) as the elephants with their "important" guests arrived, as in centuries before. There were many elephants, so when they delivered one "load" they trekked down for another. Having already ridden an elephant, we chose to go as far as possible by car - which was almost as close as the elephants came.
Inside I had to keep reminding myself that this was a fort, for it looked like a palace. Indeed, the parts that were on display were the beautiful quarters for the women, the bathing areas (complete with solar water heater) and a garden on the top floor with trees and pools and a swing that was approached only by wading in the ankle deep rain water, harvested in the monsoon season. There were many inclines and few steps; the reason being, when the queen or wives of the Raj got dressed in their best gowns they weighed about 40 lbs because of all the gold and precious stones sewn into and onto it. A chair with wheels was devised to accommodate the lady and her dress to the royal perch assigned her. The king sat on his special place on an adjecent wall. The other ladies were present, but behind a marble "screen" with holes cut so they could see out, but no one could see them. These seats were on a balcony level with with "stage" on the 1st floor, but with no stair to connect the two. There they would be entertained by dancers, musicians, magicians, singers and poetry/history tellers, to mention but a few.
Of interest was the first camode in the area, for the king's use only. It resembled the plushly overstuffed leather office chairs with arms. It had a flushing system that had to be hand filled, and most important, it had a removable portion in the center to make it utilitarian. Some things never change - there was a book holder in easy reach of this contraption!!!
Next day we went to the Hindu Temple where we were told by a 40ish, nice looking man in orange and speaking perfect Eng, explained what was going on, how we could help keep the temple in good repair with a small donation and blessed us, wishing for us a long and healthy life AND painting saffron colored paste on our foreheads. There were many people praying and reading from a small book, all out loud and not by any means in unison. The result was a low hum that sounded very much in place there.
The City Palace was over and above anything I'd ever seen in sheer beauty and craftmanship. I'll have to let the pictures talk for me on this one.
Our driver, Tarun, found PC a barbershop where I found a can or hairspray for 700Rs (that's $14). I declined. He showed me the price tag - he'd paid 13Rs for it. I think he needs to find another supplier. They did a great Job on PC's hair - there were 2 barbers and one worked a while and the other finished up. It was a very nice hair cut. Then Tarun took us to a "big" grocery store - which is big here, but nothing like as big as I go to at home. All the same, it was big to us. We got fruit and cheese, bread and crackers, and strawberry icecream which We had for my birthday luncheon - well, there was no freezer and we HAD to eat it all.
Saturday, January 31, 2009
Safarhi
We arrived Fri noonish at the Tiger Wildlife Refuge to find a beautiful "hotel"/lodge with a huge room and 1 and 1/2 baths for the two of us. We went on a safarhi Sat early and saw monkeys, of course, a wild, small boar with a horness and a young pig along side (probably the reason for the horness which I assume had a tracking device). We saw lots of spotted deer (which look like our white tail deer) and many birds, but no tigers, sorry to say. PC went again this morning and reports they HEARD tigers and saw deer scurring away from the area the sounds were coming from, but no sightings. I think HEARING tigers counts!!!
We're to have breakfast and meet Tarun for our 4 hour trip to Jaipur and a 3 day stay. Later,mj
We're to have breakfast and meet Tarun for our 4 hour trip to Jaipur and a 3 day stay. Later,mj
Oops!!!
I read our itinerary wrong - imaging that!!! We were to go to Ajmer, then the Wildlife Refuge and THEN Jaipur. It's all in the same general area - an area a lot like west Tx. It's very dry here, not having had a monsoon for 3 or 4 years. The trip was not as long as I'd thought (since I thought we were going all the way to Jaipur), but it took quite a while. We were privileged to see India building a marvelous infrastructure in the form of roads. For a stretch we would make good time on a finished portion, then we find a stretch that was under construction. PC's comment at home is "This will be nice when they finish it", and that's true here as well. I got lots of pictures of workers and the construction details. India's big highways are built much like ours are, with concrete and rebar. The difference is there are less machines and more hand labor. Women work in construction as well as men. They break big stones into small stones, they carry a metal container on their heads that looks like a large wok. There is a round "cushion" about 2" thick and 6" in diameter between their head and their load. These women carry rocks, dirt, cement or whatever needs carrying from one place to another, and they aren't all young, either!!! The men work with the cement and the rebar and fashion scaffolding and supports from tree trunks, all about 4 - 5" in diameter - an interesting mix of using what you have to accomplish what needs to be done. Big machines are available and necessary, but they put lots of people out of a job.
Anytime I see a sight like this, I think "I will not pass this way again", but our kids (if they wait til they're 70) may see it completed, and hopefully, our grandies can come before they're 70!!! It seems to me this old, old country is in the process of renewing itself - and though it will take a long time, they have the time. They seem to enjoy life more than people in a more industrial country. That's just my observation.
At Ajmer, we stayed in a nice hotel, had very good food and went to a mosque. Tarun, our wonderful driver and guide and locator of barber shop and grocery store, picked us up in an auto rickshaw (a 3 wheel scooter fitted with a seat for 2 across the back 2 wheels and a cover overhead). The reason - his car is too big to get to the mosque. OK, I like the auto rickshaw we rode in in Pune, so off we went with Tarun sitting on a little "shelf" facing us - very cozy. We were on regular streets for a while, then more narrow ones, then very narrow ones that PC and I could almost touch the walls - he out the right side and I out the left. Presently we drove into a small courtyard and parked the rickshaw to continue on foot because the passageways were now too narrow for the vehicle. The walks were uneven blocks of stone with portals requiring the raising of the feet AND the lowering of the head. I've never considered myself tall before, but then I was. The rickshaw driver held onto PC and Tarun held onto me, gently dragging us through the most dense crowd I can remember. When we got to the gate of the mosque, we shed our shoes, of course, (I'm never quite sure I'll ever see our shoes again, but here there were hundreds of shoes, tied with a rope that had a # on it and we were given the same # on a tag to it to reassure us). We went up the stairs to the metal detector. At all metal detectors I've seen in India there are 2 lines divided by genders. A man searches the men and a woman, the women. I'll tell you about the women's line. In some places they wand you, in one place (an airport) they patted me down, gently, politely, but thoroughly. This lady was only checking for cameras. Tarun was holding mine and was on the outside - we were on our own!!!
A very friendly man came to us using very good Eng and explaining that he was not a guide. He indicated we should follow him, and knowing not where the mosque was, much less what to do once we got there - we followed him. He talked to us continually, reassuring us and guiding us and giving info and instruction. When we got to the mosque there was an even larger crowd. Our not-a-guide muscled his way in and drug me who was dragging PC. It's amazing how connected we get when we don't have a clue what we're doing.
First we were sat down (which is a trick for me when there's plenty of room) and told to sit cross legged. Remembering our Loas manners, I ask if it was rude to show the bottom of the feet.
Yes, it is, so we curled as best we could, signed their book, pledged the amount we were going to give for the upkeep of the mosque, gave it, and continued on into the very small bldg with a rock or statue or something holy in the middle that we walked around. We were given another chance to contribute to the welfare of the poor - ("As you like") - We didn't like, so we left. There were vendors EVERYWHERE selling everything from food to flowers for an offering, and including clothes, Islamic men's hats (which they are not required to wear) to handkerchiefs, hats, scarves which the women ARE required to wear)
Of all the scarves I brought, I had none with me. I was reduced to emptying my bag of "necessities" and plopping that on my head. NOW I'm glad there were no cameras allowed.
Our not-a-guide led us safely to the gate and waved good-by. I gave him some rupees - THAT'S the way I like to do business, on my terms, not theirs. Tarun and the rickshaw driver helped us
retreive our shoes (yes, we got the very shoes we left) and let us lean against them to put the shoes on. Then we retraced out steps to the rickshaw and to the narrow passages. This is where we ran nose to nose with another rickshaw. There was a lot of loud conversation between the two drivers with shop keepers and others offering suggestions. They weren't speaking English, but we were understanding enough to be getting a little uneasy. In a bit Tarun turned and smiled and told us it was all over. We backed up a long way, with much being said under the driver's breath. Once they passed, his mood changed and all was well.
We were left at our hotel and had tea in a lovely garden ALL BY OURSELVES. What a contrast!!! from the press of many people and many voices to space and privacy. I'm not sure, but I think most Indians will never experience space and privacy.
I understand you're having winter, even school being out!!! It's cold here in the AM, very warm for 2 hours and cool again in the late afternoon. We're heading to really cold weather in Delhi. we're told. We miss you guys and love you all, mj
Anytime I see a sight like this, I think "I will not pass this way again", but our kids (if they wait til they're 70) may see it completed, and hopefully, our grandies can come before they're 70!!! It seems to me this old, old country is in the process of renewing itself - and though it will take a long time, they have the time. They seem to enjoy life more than people in a more industrial country. That's just my observation.
At Ajmer, we stayed in a nice hotel, had very good food and went to a mosque. Tarun, our wonderful driver and guide and locator of barber shop and grocery store, picked us up in an auto rickshaw (a 3 wheel scooter fitted with a seat for 2 across the back 2 wheels and a cover overhead). The reason - his car is too big to get to the mosque. OK, I like the auto rickshaw we rode in in Pune, so off we went with Tarun sitting on a little "shelf" facing us - very cozy. We were on regular streets for a while, then more narrow ones, then very narrow ones that PC and I could almost touch the walls - he out the right side and I out the left. Presently we drove into a small courtyard and parked the rickshaw to continue on foot because the passageways were now too narrow for the vehicle. The walks were uneven blocks of stone with portals requiring the raising of the feet AND the lowering of the head. I've never considered myself tall before, but then I was. The rickshaw driver held onto PC and Tarun held onto me, gently dragging us through the most dense crowd I can remember. When we got to the gate of the mosque, we shed our shoes, of course, (I'm never quite sure I'll ever see our shoes again, but here there were hundreds of shoes, tied with a rope that had a # on it and we were given the same # on a tag to it to reassure us). We went up the stairs to the metal detector. At all metal detectors I've seen in India there are 2 lines divided by genders. A man searches the men and a woman, the women. I'll tell you about the women's line. In some places they wand you, in one place (an airport) they patted me down, gently, politely, but thoroughly. This lady was only checking for cameras. Tarun was holding mine and was on the outside - we were on our own!!!
A very friendly man came to us using very good Eng and explaining that he was not a guide. He indicated we should follow him, and knowing not where the mosque was, much less what to do once we got there - we followed him. He talked to us continually, reassuring us and guiding us and giving info and instruction. When we got to the mosque there was an even larger crowd. Our not-a-guide muscled his way in and drug me who was dragging PC. It's amazing how connected we get when we don't have a clue what we're doing.
First we were sat down (which is a trick for me when there's plenty of room) and told to sit cross legged. Remembering our Loas manners, I ask if it was rude to show the bottom of the feet.
Yes, it is, so we curled as best we could, signed their book, pledged the amount we were going to give for the upkeep of the mosque, gave it, and continued on into the very small bldg with a rock or statue or something holy in the middle that we walked around. We were given another chance to contribute to the welfare of the poor - ("As you like") - We didn't like, so we left. There were vendors EVERYWHERE selling everything from food to flowers for an offering, and including clothes, Islamic men's hats (which they are not required to wear) to handkerchiefs, hats, scarves which the women ARE required to wear)
Of all the scarves I brought, I had none with me. I was reduced to emptying my bag of "necessities" and plopping that on my head. NOW I'm glad there were no cameras allowed.
Our not-a-guide led us safely to the gate and waved good-by. I gave him some rupees - THAT'S the way I like to do business, on my terms, not theirs. Tarun and the rickshaw driver helped us
retreive our shoes (yes, we got the very shoes we left) and let us lean against them to put the shoes on. Then we retraced out steps to the rickshaw and to the narrow passages. This is where we ran nose to nose with another rickshaw. There was a lot of loud conversation between the two drivers with shop keepers and others offering suggestions. They weren't speaking English, but we were understanding enough to be getting a little uneasy. In a bit Tarun turned and smiled and told us it was all over. We backed up a long way, with much being said under the driver's breath. Once they passed, his mood changed and all was well.
We were left at our hotel and had tea in a lovely garden ALL BY OURSELVES. What a contrast!!! from the press of many people and many voices to space and privacy. I'm not sure, but I think most Indians will never experience space and privacy.
I understand you're having winter, even school being out!!! It's cold here in the AM, very warm for 2 hours and cool again in the late afternoon. We're heading to really cold weather in Delhi. we're told. We miss you guys and love you all, mj
Tuesday, January 27, 2009
Rajasthan
We left Puna by air for Ahmedabad, where we met a quiet spoken, gentle young man holding a big sign with our names on it. His name is Tarun, and he is a very good driver - all business while he's driving, informative when we're stopped. We got in the car and drove 6 hours or so to Mt Abu, which is about 2000' above the surrounding plain. The hotel is very nice and the food is very good. I'm mostly eating Indian, and PC is mostly eating 'continental'. The big deal there is the sunset. Imagine being high above the surrounding landscape and watching the sun go down over the plains. Sunday was the day before the 60th anniversery if the independence of India from UK, making this weekend a 3 day holiday -so - there were hundreds of people there to celebrate the sunset together. Our guide book said people are vet friendly and get well acquainted while waiting for the sun to set. We got there about an hour early and found a place to sit. We did get acquainted with several people, parents with their children staring at us as an oddity in their experience. I took pictures of several sweet ones and PC ask mamas if the child could have one of his butterskotch, wrapped, hard candies. Without exception, the mothers have agreed. We visited most with one couple. People feel a duty to explain India to us, and we are willing learners. They are all amazed at our age and how long we've been married. This couple explained why Indian men choose younger wives - "women mature faster than men". After I thought about this, I decided that women get OLD faster than men, but he said it better!
When the sun went down there was a roar from the crowd, just as the book said there'd be. Walking back to the car would have been shaky business if it were not with so many helpful people. One tall man and his wife helped us down some steps and talked while walking - Whivh country are you from? Have you been here long? where will you go from here? etc. As we parted he gave me his card, a lawyer in some big city, saying "you never know when you might need a lawyer". The next day we saw two temples, one Hindu - every inch carved with gods and flowers and daily human activities, the other (smaller) - every inch covered with mosiacs of plain and colored mirrors. Some were in scenes with elephants and riders, some with geometrical designs. This was a first for us - totally covered on the inside with mirror pieces. The outside was plain white.
The next day we drove to Udipur and the fanciest hotel I've ever seen, much less stayed in.
We're here for 3 nights which I'm having trouble fitting into my value system. PC told me it's already paid for, just enjoy! I'm trying.
The first night we did little more than walk around a bit and go to bed (with a giant, skinny TV with the great picture). The next day, my birthday, we went to a temple and the city castle, which is huge. They still have a king in Rajasthan and he lives in part of it. He has made 2 world class hotels in 2 of the wings and still has a large, historical place for the public to view. On the 4th floor there are trees in the garden. Our guide ask if we knew how the trees got there. I, being from a progressive town that has highrise apts with trees on the roof offered that suggestion. PC usually chooses to remain silent and appear more knowledgable. The trees are growing on top of the hill (or mt) that the castle is built AROUND. There was a water harvesting system that collects in beautiful pools and was used for irrigation and for pleasure. Today I suspect the water is pumped there.
In the evening we enjoyed a bagpipe band with drums and bugles, a puppet show and folk music and dancing. There were 3 musicians and 3 lady dancers. The last dance we saw consisted of the 3 ladies with flames coming out of the top of a water jar on each head. With this balanced they preformed many slow movements of controlled balance and many exciting fast movements.
What a birthday celebration! We finished with dinner and rest. Today we take rest til 4pm when we go to the barbershop and then to another palace. Rajasthan (raja - king and sthan - state) has many palaces. Tomorrow we leave early for Jaipur. Much love to all of you,mj
When the sun went down there was a roar from the crowd, just as the book said there'd be. Walking back to the car would have been shaky business if it were not with so many helpful people. One tall man and his wife helped us down some steps and talked while walking - Whivh country are you from? Have you been here long? where will you go from here? etc. As we parted he gave me his card, a lawyer in some big city, saying "you never know when you might need a lawyer". The next day we saw two temples, one Hindu - every inch carved with gods and flowers and daily human activities, the other (smaller) - every inch covered with mosiacs of plain and colored mirrors. Some were in scenes with elephants and riders, some with geometrical designs. This was a first for us - totally covered on the inside with mirror pieces. The outside was plain white.
The next day we drove to Udipur and the fanciest hotel I've ever seen, much less stayed in.
We're here for 3 nights which I'm having trouble fitting into my value system. PC told me it's already paid for, just enjoy! I'm trying.
The first night we did little more than walk around a bit and go to bed (with a giant, skinny TV with the great picture). The next day, my birthday, we went to a temple and the city castle, which is huge. They still have a king in Rajasthan and he lives in part of it. He has made 2 world class hotels in 2 of the wings and still has a large, historical place for the public to view. On the 4th floor there are trees in the garden. Our guide ask if we knew how the trees got there. I, being from a progressive town that has highrise apts with trees on the roof offered that suggestion. PC usually chooses to remain silent and appear more knowledgable. The trees are growing on top of the hill (or mt) that the castle is built AROUND. There was a water harvesting system that collects in beautiful pools and was used for irrigation and for pleasure. Today I suspect the water is pumped there.
In the evening we enjoyed a bagpipe band with drums and bugles, a puppet show and folk music and dancing. There were 3 musicians and 3 lady dancers. The last dance we saw consisted of the 3 ladies with flames coming out of the top of a water jar on each head. With this balanced they preformed many slow movements of controlled balance and many exciting fast movements.
What a birthday celebration! We finished with dinner and rest. Today we take rest til 4pm when we go to the barbershop and then to another palace. Rajasthan (raja - king and sthan - state) has many palaces. Tomorrow we leave early for Jaipur. Much love to all of you,mj
Friday, January 23, 2009
Out of Order?
There are a couple of entries that are saved 'somewhere' because of my low-tech skills. Dr Ashwin will help me when he has time, and you shall surely get them in spite of said skills.
Our most recent adventure was with driver Vijay and helper Da Tah' in Dr Ashwin's big, shinny, black 7 or 8 passenger car with a small decal that has a red cross on it with the word "DOCTOR" across it. It's not big or showy; I only noticed it myself the 2nd day. I mention this to help explain why these 2 white headed, very fair complected elders with the TWO 'drivers' were thought to have lots (or LOTS) of money.
The trip was to the caves of Ajanta and Ellora near Aurangabad about 70 miles from Pune. The caves date back to the 2nd century BCE and are carved from ONE mountain of volcanic rock, probably an uprising of lava that never erupted, but cooled and crystallized underground. I hope I'm explaining so that you can grasp the enormity of the task these monks accomplished with a hammer and chisel only. There are 30 caves at Ajanta, some are like dormitories with single cells that include a chiseled 'bed/pillow' along the walls and a large open space with a 6' sitting Buddha. Others have a large room and a large Buddha. All have many pillars. Remember, all of this out of one part of a rock mt. They started in the front and at the top and worked to the back and the bottom. The angles are all perfect 90 degrees. They seem to have been abandoned in the 1st century AD, and no one we've asked has known why, other than to say that Buddhism seemed to be moving to the east where it is still strong today.
We didn't go in all the caves; there was much walking and climbing. We were convinced to hire a chair. 'Hire a chair?' how do I do that? Four men, not all young and not all strong looking appeared with a chair tied securely to 2 long poles. I was not sure they could carry me - that's almost 100 lbs each. They assured they were able and used to the work. It was 800 Rs ($16) for each of us. It took a long time for me to agree, but finally did and was hoisted up and walked quickly up several flights of stairs. At the first stop I decided they were worth at least what they'd ask. PC at first decided to walk, and the chair men walked beside him til he realized where our destination was. Then he joined me, high above the school children who waved and spoke and smiles and took our pictures. I guess we were a spectacle. The trip down was fast, the men in perfect step on all the steps and passageways and slanting walkways. When the sat us down, safe and sound (us), sweating and panting (them) we paid them more than they'd asked. They had truly earned it!!!
The first afternoon we were there, Vijay took us to the mimi Taj. It was built by the son of the man who'd built the Taj for his wife. The Taj is 80% marble and 20% plaster. The mini Taj is 20% marble and 80% plaster, and dedicated to the builder's mom (are you following this? - that's the same woman the Taj was dedicated to.) In this one (dedicated to his mom) houses his wife. We went inside and saw the place where she is entombed beneath. Here, again, it was being worked on and restored. The whole area is 32 acres and has many gardens and a variety of what was once pools.There were lots of people there of all ages and religions. I saw 4 or 5 teen Muslim girls in heels and colorful pants and stylish tops that don't quite reach the top of the pants with their long thin black cloak loosely draping from their shoulders like a choir robe that's been unfastened, but not quite taken off just yet. They were laughing and talking like teens most anywhere. I couldn't help but think their mom and dad weren't there.
On the way to the Ellora caves, we saw Daulatabad Fort, built in the 12th century, said to be the most magnificent fort in this state of Maharashtra. It is about 60' above the surrounding plain on a volcanic core - straight up basaltic rock with soil on the top. It looked small from the road, but the wall around it enclosed about 100 football fields of plain with the elevated fort in the middle. PC noticed a mote outside the portion of the wall we could see. It seems there was a great battle here between the Muslim king and the Hindu king. The Hindu king won and established the Maharashtra "city-state" which is now the state. In every city and village there can be found a statue of this Hindu king and many public areas are named for him (airports, highways, schools, etc.) I'll have to get his name later. Sorry.
The Ellora Caves are Buddhist, Hindu and Janis. The Buddhist caves were oldest - starting at 5th century. Same strong angles and graceful Buddha statues. The Hindu temples are true to square, but carved everywhere!!! Hindus allow many gods. India is a vast area with many dividing mts and wide river valleys separating the people by language and climate and religion and custom. Many people observed many different customs, so many gods were acknowledged according to the history and need of the people. Hinduism has no one person who "started" it, but is a collection of all the gods the people have prayed to and heard from. This is my own poor attempt to explain; there are better explanations almost anywhere., but to help understand these Hindu caves, this is a start. These caves, too, are chiseled from one rock mt, kinda like Enchanted Roch in the hill country of Tx, but much larger. These were "discovered" in the 17th century by some Britts hunting out from their post. They have been excavated and have been found to hold both monasteries and temples. Cave #16 has the world's largest monolith. We saw it and photographed it. This temple was at least 3 floors in height and complex in design. Many gods, elephants and cows were carved there in huge and small dimensions. The Jains caves are younger and least precise. It's possible the rock was softer - it is a different color. It's really hard to imagine how this work was done and why it was abandoned.
We got back to Pune last night and this has been a day of rest for us, as Ashwin and Sunita are at work.. Tomorrow we leave for our Ragasthan trip of 12 days ,ending in New Delhi for a week in the YMCA. From there we'll take day trips to the Golden Temple of the Sheiks and the Taj. Hopefully we'll get to hang out at the New Delhi University where Grace, Mercy's sister, teaches.
Hopefully, too, photos will be forthcoming. I've taken well over 2000 by now. I LOVE this filmless camera - what a great idea!!! We really miss you folks. We'll be home Feb 17th. Love and prayers from MJ&PC
Our most recent adventure was with driver Vijay and helper Da Tah' in Dr Ashwin's big, shinny, black 7 or 8 passenger car with a small decal that has a red cross on it with the word "DOCTOR" across it. It's not big or showy; I only noticed it myself the 2nd day. I mention this to help explain why these 2 white headed, very fair complected elders with the TWO 'drivers' were thought to have lots (or LOTS) of money.
The trip was to the caves of Ajanta and Ellora near Aurangabad about 70 miles from Pune. The caves date back to the 2nd century BCE and are carved from ONE mountain of volcanic rock, probably an uprising of lava that never erupted, but cooled and crystallized underground. I hope I'm explaining so that you can grasp the enormity of the task these monks accomplished with a hammer and chisel only. There are 30 caves at Ajanta, some are like dormitories with single cells that include a chiseled 'bed/pillow' along the walls and a large open space with a 6' sitting Buddha. Others have a large room and a large Buddha. All have many pillars. Remember, all of this out of one part of a rock mt. They started in the front and at the top and worked to the back and the bottom. The angles are all perfect 90 degrees. They seem to have been abandoned in the 1st century AD, and no one we've asked has known why, other than to say that Buddhism seemed to be moving to the east where it is still strong today.
We didn't go in all the caves; there was much walking and climbing. We were convinced to hire a chair. 'Hire a chair?' how do I do that? Four men, not all young and not all strong looking appeared with a chair tied securely to 2 long poles. I was not sure they could carry me - that's almost 100 lbs each. They assured they were able and used to the work. It was 800 Rs ($16) for each of us. It took a long time for me to agree, but finally did and was hoisted up and walked quickly up several flights of stairs. At the first stop I decided they were worth at least what they'd ask. PC at first decided to walk, and the chair men walked beside him til he realized where our destination was. Then he joined me, high above the school children who waved and spoke and smiles and took our pictures. I guess we were a spectacle. The trip down was fast, the men in perfect step on all the steps and passageways and slanting walkways. When the sat us down, safe and sound (us), sweating and panting (them) we paid them more than they'd asked. They had truly earned it!!!
The first afternoon we were there, Vijay took us to the mimi Taj. It was built by the son of the man who'd built the Taj for his wife. The Taj is 80% marble and 20% plaster. The mini Taj is 20% marble and 80% plaster, and dedicated to the builder's mom (are you following this? - that's the same woman the Taj was dedicated to.) In this one (dedicated to his mom) houses his wife. We went inside and saw the place where she is entombed beneath. Here, again, it was being worked on and restored. The whole area is 32 acres and has many gardens and a variety of what was once pools.There were lots of people there of all ages and religions. I saw 4 or 5 teen Muslim girls in heels and colorful pants and stylish tops that don't quite reach the top of the pants with their long thin black cloak loosely draping from their shoulders like a choir robe that's been unfastened, but not quite taken off just yet. They were laughing and talking like teens most anywhere. I couldn't help but think their mom and dad weren't there.
On the way to the Ellora caves, we saw Daulatabad Fort, built in the 12th century, said to be the most magnificent fort in this state of Maharashtra. It is about 60' above the surrounding plain on a volcanic core - straight up basaltic rock with soil on the top. It looked small from the road, but the wall around it enclosed about 100 football fields of plain with the elevated fort in the middle. PC noticed a mote outside the portion of the wall we could see. It seems there was a great battle here between the Muslim king and the Hindu king. The Hindu king won and established the Maharashtra "city-state" which is now the state. In every city and village there can be found a statue of this Hindu king and many public areas are named for him (airports, highways, schools, etc.) I'll have to get his name later. Sorry.
The Ellora Caves are Buddhist, Hindu and Janis. The Buddhist caves were oldest - starting at 5th century. Same strong angles and graceful Buddha statues. The Hindu temples are true to square, but carved everywhere!!! Hindus allow many gods. India is a vast area with many dividing mts and wide river valleys separating the people by language and climate and religion and custom. Many people observed many different customs, so many gods were acknowledged according to the history and need of the people. Hinduism has no one person who "started" it, but is a collection of all the gods the people have prayed to and heard from. This is my own poor attempt to explain; there are better explanations almost anywhere., but to help understand these Hindu caves, this is a start. These caves, too, are chiseled from one rock mt, kinda like Enchanted Roch in the hill country of Tx, but much larger. These were "discovered" in the 17th century by some Britts hunting out from their post. They have been excavated and have been found to hold both monasteries and temples. Cave #16 has the world's largest monolith. We saw it and photographed it. This temple was at least 3 floors in height and complex in design. Many gods, elephants and cows were carved there in huge and small dimensions. The Jains caves are younger and least precise. It's possible the rock was softer - it is a different color. It's really hard to imagine how this work was done and why it was abandoned.
We got back to Pune last night and this has been a day of rest for us, as Ashwin and Sunita are at work.. Tomorrow we leave for our Ragasthan trip of 12 days ,ending in New Delhi for a week in the YMCA. From there we'll take day trips to the Golden Temple of the Sheiks and the Taj. Hopefully we'll get to hang out at the New Delhi University where Grace, Mercy's sister, teaches.
Hopefully, too, photos will be forthcoming. I've taken well over 2000 by now. I LOVE this filmless camera - what a great idea!!! We really miss you folks. We'll be home Feb 17th. Love and prayers from MJ&PC
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